How to Open & Close Hunter-Cased Pocket WatchesĪ hunter case has a latch which catches on the rim of the front cover and keeps the cover closed. Push the crown all the way back in to start the movement and begin normal time keeping. To set the time, pull the crown all the way out (or second detent) and wind clockwise. To set the date (if this is a feature on the watch), pull the crown out to the first detent and turn anti-clockwise. Meanwhile, Sole Ferragamo, a member of the Ferragamo luxury house, challenges received notions of preciousness by creating jewels for her So-Le Studio brand in which leather - traditionally used in jewellery as a support - takes centre stage, and the use of metals is kept to a minimum.These operate just like standard quartz wrist watches. Betts also deals in gold and has created the Single Mine Origin kitemark to address the traceability of the metal. “Initially, there were doubts over the concept of a wooden ‘diamond’,” says Müllertz.Įstablishing long-term partnerships is also the route chosen by the UK’s Royal Mint which, for its jewellery line 886, sources gold from e-waste foundry Excir and silver extracted from old X-ray film through Betts Metals, a precious metal company. Müllertz also sources her signature Mpingo blackwood, which she polishes and cuts to maximum brilliance like a diamond, from a WWF-protected forest in Tanzania. Sarah Müllertz, Copenhagen-based founder of sustainable jewellery brand Kinraden, says that accessing recycled metal had been the bottleneck in scaling her business, until she established a partnership with a specialist foundry. Yet, despite the abundance of gold lying in landfill, purchasing exclusively recycled metal is a challenge, as refineries usually mix gold from different sources. But, she adds: “It doesn’t take long to win them over when we tell them that, if you were to mine one tonne of the earth’s ore, you would get a yield of fewer than 30 grammes of gold, while if you were to mine one tonne of electronic waste, you would get 300g.” “This got me thinking about the huge potential of e-mining.” Seven years later, in 2017, she launched Lylie, a brand that uses gold recovered from electronics and dental fillings to create delicate jewellery designs set with lab-grown diamonds or antique recycled natural stones.Īt first, the origin of the gold raised a few eyebrows among her clients, says Walter. “Aged 16, I was taken on a school trip to a local foundry where it was explained that our mobile phones’ circuit boards contain gold, platinum and silver,” recalls Eliza Walter. In another study, McKinsey highlights how 43 per cent of the Gen Z cohort of luxury consumers born - between 19 - already prefer brands with sustainability credentials. As a result, she is sensitive to incorporating structural changes to her business to minimise its impact on natural resources.Īnd a 2021 report by McKinsey predicts that, by 2025, sustainability criteria such as these will influence 20-30 per cent of fine jewellery purchases. “It is the piece of recycled electronics that inspires the jewel we design around it,” she explains.Ĭarr, who is in her early thirties, is from a generation raised in full knowledge of the pressing environmental challenges. So, together with two other business partners who prefer to remain anonymous, Carr liaised with a jewellery workshop in Sicily to source discarded phones from a local repair shop and design jewellery around them.
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